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1948 (P-15) PLYMOUTH SPECIAL DELUXE, CLUB COUPE INTERIOR RESTORATION |
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Restoring the Package Shelf
This is what the package shelf looked like after about 5 coats of white
enamel paint. As you can see it still doesn't look good. These
are heavy paperboard so the after 50 years of sun shining on it, it is
very dry. You'll also notice at the bottom of the shelf (right side
of picture) that the shelf has curled somewhat. At first I was going
to toss this and make a new one. Then decided to see if it could
be repaired. Didn't want to buy a whole new board just for this little
piece.
After debating on how to make the bottom of the shelf stay flat, I came
up with the following solution. I had some scrap door panel board
left over. In fact two pieces of the scrap were about the same size
as the bottom of the shelf.
STEP 1:
Use the scrap piece of board as I did and cut it to size if necessary.
If you don't have the panel board you could use a piece of masonite or
even plywood.
STEP 2:
I placed this on the "Top" side of the shelf, then attached it to the
shelf with aluminum rivets (steel might rust in time). You don't
want to put this on the bottom as it may not fit right in the car when
finished, if you did. Now this part is reinforced and flat and solid
again. Since the package shelf is so dry, my first rivet did not
hold as it just pulled through the old shelf. To solve this I used
rivet washers on the bottom for extra strength. This worked good.
Just a little more work to go through.
STEP 3:
Originally the package shelf was held into place in the car by the three
bolts, large washer and a nut going into the steel brace of the car, at
the top of the shelf. Number one, this makes it difficult to attach
the shelf back into the car. Number two, in my opinion, it looks
bad with the screws and washers showing. Since we are putting
a nice piece of fabric instead of painting it would be a shame to mess
up the looks with the screws and washers. Therefore, since I'm covering
the panel with fabric anyway I purchased the new modern plastic type of
clips to hold the shelf in place. These are nice and flat on top
so you won't know they are there when finished.
STEP 5:
Push the fasteners into the original holes. Since you are going
to be moving the shelf around a lot during the covering procedure you need
to temporally make sure the new fasteners fall out of the hole. To
do this, simply bend a paper clip and push it over the fastener shaft on
the back side of the package shelf. Now they won't fall out accidentally.
STEP 6:
As mentioned previously, the board is very dry and the rivets pulled right through on the first attempt at putting one through. In order to hold the fabric on, I plan to use rivets. There is really no way to use the washers as I did before when I'm installing the cover. I needed to strengthen the board itself so the rivets wouldn't pull through. My solution was to use (you guessed it), the good old military method. I placed duct tape around all the edges of the top side of the package shelf.
STEP 7:
The picture your looking at is not blurred. What you see is double sided tape over the duct tape. This was placed over the entire front side of the package shelf. It is to hold the fiber fill that is going to give the puffy soft look to the shelf. You can use 3M #77 spray adhesive for this also, if you like. I had the extra tape laying around, plus it is neater spraying adhesive.
STEP 8:
This is the filler being used to cover the package shelf. This
can be purchased at a fabric store in sheets. (Where your wife goes
for her sewing needs). Size and thickness is on the package.
Simply decide how much puff you want and purchase that thickness.
STEP 9:
Lay out the fill on a flat surface and cut a piece slightly larger than the package shelf. Place the cut piece on top of the shelf. Press down on the fill at the folded portion of the package shelf. Start at the center and push out to the edges to make good contact with the double sided tape. Then go over the entire shelf and do the same. Now your fill is attached to the shelf. Now trim around all edges of the shelf with a good sharp pair of scissors. Scissors work better for cutting the fill than a craftsman's knife. The knife will pull on the fill.
Now place double sided tape along the creased or folded part of the shelf on top of the fiber fill. Again you can use spray adhesive, but it's not as neat. Place at least one strip from end to end in the center of the fold, then one on each side of the center strip, end to end.
STEP 10:
Now roll out your fabric onto a flat surface. I use the floor. Place the package shelf about 3 to 4 inches from the outside edge of the fabric roll. Make sure the grain of the material is going the same way. Now cut the material around the shelf with scissors, about 3 to 4 inches from the edge of the shelf. Your going to need the extra material when fold this over to attach the material to the shelf. You won't really need this much, but it's best to have to much than to little. You can trim it later.
STEP 11:
Lay the cut fabric loosely over the shelf and stretch out. Then, as with the fill, start in the center of the shelf fold and press the fabric down to make contact with the double sided tape. Then proceed from the center out to the edges. Now we're ready to attach the fabric to the shelf.
Fold the fabric over the top at the center (highest point). With one hand hold the fabric tight in the center of the fold. With the other pull the fabric over the top and stretch over the fastener shaft. Make a hole with the awl for the shaft, then make slits with the scissors so you can push the material over the shaft. Make sure the fabric is all the way to the bottom of the shaft touching the bottom of the shelf surface.
Now your ready to start attaching the fabric with the aluminum rivets. Starting next to the head of the fastener, pull the fabric tight as done before. Now make a hole with the awl through the fabric and board. Use a gentle slow push and twisting motion to make the hole so you don't go through the top side of the fabric. Have one had on the front side where your making the hole. As soon as you can feel the awl starting to puncher the top side, remove the awl. Push the rivet through the hole and fasten it. Continue this across the top and down one side to where the fold begins. Then do the other half of the top the same way.
Now fasten the bottom side using the same method. Then both ends.
Now trim all excess material on the back side. Now you should end
up looking like this. Ready to put in the car.
At this point you can add buttons or other item if you want to make it look more puffy. I didn't want the buttons as I will be putting in a rear speaker, which will accent the fill and puff it out when I install the speaker. Will install after I get the headliner into the car and rear speakers.
NOTE: To cover the shelf flat, simply skip using the fill
material. When this is done you cannot use the rivets. You
must then use an adhesive to fasten the material to the backside of the
shelf.
Carpet Installation
Before Installing the carpet I wanted to do something about the Master
Cylinder. In order to check it or add fluid you would
normally
need to lift the carpet to get to the master cylinder access opening in
the floor. This would messing up the carpet all the time just to
check the fluid level. To get around this I purchased a remote master
cylinder reservoir from A-Plus Auto Parts. In order to use this I
needed a new master cylinder cap. I had one made from stainless steel
with a hole drilled and tapped in the center for the remote filler line.
Mounted
the reservoir on the fender wall for ease of filling and ran the braided
stainless hose down to the master cylinder. This worked out great.
Now I can install the carpet and not worry about having to lift it up to
check the fluid level.
© NOR-MARTM Enterprises 2002